So we only have 7 days left in Gulu, Uganda and I know that I will miss it here a lot. I have become comfortable in town, with my family and friends at Peyero Guest House, and with the group and class dynamics. At times I think about conducting my ISP project here in Gulu because of how comfortable I feel here, but I know (as of now) that my academic interests are in Rwanda. When people talk about our upcoming travel to Kigali, Rwanda I get very excited.
I found out this week that Sam, who I originally thought was my brother, is a Rwandan national. His family moved to Uganda when he was 2, I am not sure their reasons. I talked to Sam (mainly) and Sunday for around 3 hours in the evening after school this week. It all started when I was listening to my iPod and joined them in the courtyard between my bedroom and the Guest House (hotel). They were very interested to hear my music and understand how the iPod worked. I taught them how to use it, and they shared the headphones while we chatted.
Sunday had told me prior to that day that one of his friends was a Rwandan whose family was killed in the genocide, but either I didn't catch that it was Sam or he didn't say. When Sam saw the book I was carrying along with my iPod, “We Wish To Inform You That Tomorrow We Will Be Killed With Our Families”, he told me how he had left Rwanda as a young boy (before 1994). He told me his grandmother still lives on their land among the neighbors who slaughtered her children. He lost 3 uncles because of violence in these regions (1 was killed by LRA, and 2 in the genocide). The most interesting thing he told me is how his cousins do not eat fish to this day because when the dead bodies were flowing in the rivers, the fish were feasting on the dead. Sam doesn't have a problem eating fish.
Sorry if that was not an appropriate story for a blog post, but I think it is important to know that these are the things I am experiencing here and the type of things we talk about. During this week of classes we have been watching a lot of documentaries about the Northern Ugandan conflict, so now there are images in my mind to go along with all of the testimonies and stories I have been hearing. It is both eye-opening, disturbing and fascinating. {For those who are interested, you should check out “Bending Spears” and “War Dance”!} Today's film (yes I am in class right now, but the lecture is UBER boring and if I weren't writing this post I'd fall asleep) is about what is happening in the North now with reintegration of those who have been living in IDP camps, as well as formerly abducted children (both boys-soldiers, and girls-wives of commanders). I am looking forward to it!
Probably the most exciting thing that has happened this week so far (it is only Thursday) is that my friend (from Goucher) Hanna found an amazing little oasis among Gulu. It is called TAKS (through art keep smiling) and it is an amazing place where they sell art made by people out in the villages around Gulu that the owner has discovered, they offer computer classes and internet services, karate and dance classes, there is a restaurant, accommodations in traditional (but pretty decked out) huts and much more.
I think Hanna is going to do her ISP on TAKS and try and live there during her research. The owner, David, was an amazing but quite fast talking Ugandan who wanted to show us every inch of the place. He is a potter (forgot to say they have a wheel and you could probably throw there), painter and overall accepting guy. He reminds me of a lot of the older hippies I grew up around in the states.
The minute we walked onto their compound I felt like it could be transplanted to Asheville, NC. The people at TAKS are just breaking into the area though and not many people know about them. They could do so much good they just need a hand getting the word out. Hopefully Hanna or one of us can help them build a website. The place is literally on the same road as where we all take classes (at Churchill Courts Hotel Ltd.) so I know those who come back to research in Uganda will make it a regular spot. I hope I can find as comforting and inspiring a place in Kigali!
So here is an update on what is coming up for me:
-Friday: potluck/goat roast at Jeremy's home-stay compound
-Sunday: Home-stay Party at Churchill Courts with everyone's families
-Wednesday: we get on the bus and head South to the capitol Kampala
-Saturday: free day in Kampala. I'm hoping to meet the rest of my siblings there: Harriet and Isabella
-Sunday: We leave very early in the AM for Kigali, RWANDA (it could take 14 hours:().
So I don't know when I'll be back on the internet after Sunday? Kigali is mucho developed but it depends on free time and finding the good spots.
Thursday, September 24, 2009
Sunday, September 20, 2009
Eye opening experiences.
Hello loyal followers.
This last week was filled with both frustrating but eyeopening experiences, and some fun moments as well. I'll start with the fun because well, it's just more fun!
This week I went with my friend Alex, Jules, and our program assistant (the most awesome Ugandan ever) Stella to get a traditional Kitenge outfit made. Alex and I left the group "pool-party" at the (primarily white) Acholi Inn early to go and meet Jules and Stella at the tailor. While I had been to the market before, it was still quite confusing to find the place Stella gets her clothes made. There are literally 5 rows of tailors and dress shops in shacks lining the market. So Stella came out to find us on the street and walked us to her regular spot. When we got there Jules was already being measured for her Kitenge. The Kitenge (probably spelled wrong) is usually a two piece outfit tailored to fit your body out the beautiful patterned fabric you pick out and pay for, which means if there is left over, it is yours! There was one wall of the shop devoted to pictures of the different styles, or "fashions" that can be made. I knew that I wanted a skirt that was shorter than the ones I've seen, but I didn't know about the top. So I watched Jules get measured and asked around to see what she was getting made and what people thought would look good on me.
I ended up being measured for a skirt that hits at my mid-calf and has two slits in the front, because it is somewhat like a pencil skirt. I "kinda" copied Jules idea and got a tank top made for myself. But once we went to pick our outfits up on Friday afternoon I noticed how different our tops looked. I had pointed at one of the "fashions" that went slightly off the shoulder and was rounded, and that's what I got. I absolutely LOVE it! The whole thing fit me perfectly the minute I put it on, while both my friends had to get some adjustments made. Both Alex and I wore our new outfits (though she had 2 made, and is now getting an additional) out Friday night to the Acholi Inn for Kim's (another student) 20th birthday dinner. We got lots of compliments from our director and other students.
The biggest event of the week though was our 3 day excursion to Kitgum, a rather small town in the North. To get to Kitgum we had to drive 3-4 hours on the worst road I've seen yet. While 24-26 ish students were in the massive bus, I chose to ride in the truck. Lets just say the truck makes for a much dirtier, bumpier ride. But it could also be seen as better because there are only 3 students, a driver, and every one's favorite.. Stella. By the end of the trip the 3 of us (Jules, Morgan and I) were as dirty as could be. And we immediately had things to do and no showers for a few hours.
Basically, the excursion to Kitgum was a mystery to everyone. It turns out not even our academic director Dr. William knew what we were "really" doing there. We knew we were going to visit the Kitgum Youth Center, but we had no idea what/who that would entail.
As it turns out the Kitgum Youth Center is not in the town of Kitgum, it is in the countryside an hour away. And the youth are people from the ages of 20-35. When we finally got there, after many delays and absolutely NO time management by the staff, we found out we were expected to meet in small groups with the "youth" to share. What that meant we had no idea. What it turned out to mean was that we sit under a tree, some of us students on one side, a translator in between, and a large group of the "youth" involved in different programs in the area.
We tried to ask them questions about their lives in the North and their experiences with the "program" and center, but of course our questions mostly went unanswered. What I mean by this is, when you ask most Ugandans a question they answer it without really understanding what the question is, so they just talk a lot about what they want. When it was their turn to ask us questions we quickly discovered that all the really had us there for was to "fund" or give them aid. I understand how desperately they need help because they are on the brink of famine in this region and they will have no income with no crops. However, for our group to be mislead as to why we were there, and unprepared for their question and to have our own was SO frustrating!
I think we all learned a lot about the hard life that Ugandans of the North live (1 health clinic with no meds, no secondary school or university, no money, far from towns/cities and amenities, very close to Sudan and other conflicts), but at the same time we all came back to Kitgum frustrated, upset and many of us sick. We ended up having what I would call a town hall meeting in the evening with only the students, and we came up with a lot of things about our program that we are going to see if we can change, or just bring up to our director. In fact a small group of us, me included, are talking to William about it tomorrow after class. I could write a lot more about the Kitgum trip, to be honest I am kind of "over it" and ready to look to a brighter future. Of course I will never forget the story of those people, and I really want to help them in the ways that I can once I get back to the states, but as of now I hate being perceived as only an object of money, or as if I can solve ALL the problems people face.
The last thing I'll include in this post is the tid-bit about going clubbing in Kitgum. Everyone was ready to go out when we were in Kitgum, and this was the 1st time we "all" had gone out together. We had heard of a club called Metro, which turned out to really be called Roxy and was the only club in town. It was large, loud and full of people (not only men) ready to grab/pull any woman they wanted to dance with. I had a good time, but it was quite an experience. I was sooo proud of the guys on our trip who danced around the girls being harassed and blocked potential annoyances. At the same time I had a great time dancing with certain Ugandans and people from our group. For anyone going to Kitgum, I would recommend going to Roxy, probably on a week night unlike us. Part of the problem I'm sure was that it was ladies night.
Well that's all for now folks. I should head home since I left many hours ago. I'm excited for this coming week of classes even though there are many more papers coming up. 13-14 days until RWANDA!
This last week was filled with both frustrating but eyeopening experiences, and some fun moments as well. I'll start with the fun because well, it's just more fun!
This week I went with my friend Alex, Jules, and our program assistant (the most awesome Ugandan ever) Stella to get a traditional Kitenge outfit made. Alex and I left the group "pool-party" at the (primarily white) Acholi Inn early to go and meet Jules and Stella at the tailor. While I had been to the market before, it was still quite confusing to find the place Stella gets her clothes made. There are literally 5 rows of tailors and dress shops in shacks lining the market. So Stella came out to find us on the street and walked us to her regular spot. When we got there Jules was already being measured for her Kitenge. The Kitenge (probably spelled wrong) is usually a two piece outfit tailored to fit your body out the beautiful patterned fabric you pick out and pay for, which means if there is left over, it is yours! There was one wall of the shop devoted to pictures of the different styles, or "fashions" that can be made. I knew that I wanted a skirt that was shorter than the ones I've seen, but I didn't know about the top. So I watched Jules get measured and asked around to see what she was getting made and what people thought would look good on me.
I ended up being measured for a skirt that hits at my mid-calf and has two slits in the front, because it is somewhat like a pencil skirt. I "kinda" copied Jules idea and got a tank top made for myself. But once we went to pick our outfits up on Friday afternoon I noticed how different our tops looked. I had pointed at one of the "fashions" that went slightly off the shoulder and was rounded, and that's what I got. I absolutely LOVE it! The whole thing fit me perfectly the minute I put it on, while both my friends had to get some adjustments made. Both Alex and I wore our new outfits (though she had 2 made, and is now getting an additional) out Friday night to the Acholi Inn for Kim's (another student) 20th birthday dinner. We got lots of compliments from our director and other students.
The biggest event of the week though was our 3 day excursion to Kitgum, a rather small town in the North. To get to Kitgum we had to drive 3-4 hours on the worst road I've seen yet. While 24-26 ish students were in the massive bus, I chose to ride in the truck. Lets just say the truck makes for a much dirtier, bumpier ride. But it could also be seen as better because there are only 3 students, a driver, and every one's favorite.. Stella. By the end of the trip the 3 of us (Jules, Morgan and I) were as dirty as could be. And we immediately had things to do and no showers for a few hours.
Basically, the excursion to Kitgum was a mystery to everyone. It turns out not even our academic director Dr. William knew what we were "really" doing there. We knew we were going to visit the Kitgum Youth Center, but we had no idea what/who that would entail.
As it turns out the Kitgum Youth Center is not in the town of Kitgum, it is in the countryside an hour away. And the youth are people from the ages of 20-35. When we finally got there, after many delays and absolutely NO time management by the staff, we found out we were expected to meet in small groups with the "youth" to share. What that meant we had no idea. What it turned out to mean was that we sit under a tree, some of us students on one side, a translator in between, and a large group of the "youth" involved in different programs in the area.
We tried to ask them questions about their lives in the North and their experiences with the "program" and center, but of course our questions mostly went unanswered. What I mean by this is, when you ask most Ugandans a question they answer it without really understanding what the question is, so they just talk a lot about what they want. When it was their turn to ask us questions we quickly discovered that all the really had us there for was to "fund" or give them aid. I understand how desperately they need help because they are on the brink of famine in this region and they will have no income with no crops. However, for our group to be mislead as to why we were there, and unprepared for their question and to have our own was SO frustrating!
I think we all learned a lot about the hard life that Ugandans of the North live (1 health clinic with no meds, no secondary school or university, no money, far from towns/cities and amenities, very close to Sudan and other conflicts), but at the same time we all came back to Kitgum frustrated, upset and many of us sick. We ended up having what I would call a town hall meeting in the evening with only the students, and we came up with a lot of things about our program that we are going to see if we can change, or just bring up to our director. In fact a small group of us, me included, are talking to William about it tomorrow after class. I could write a lot more about the Kitgum trip, to be honest I am kind of "over it" and ready to look to a brighter future. Of course I will never forget the story of those people, and I really want to help them in the ways that I can once I get back to the states, but as of now I hate being perceived as only an object of money, or as if I can solve ALL the problems people face.
The last thing I'll include in this post is the tid-bit about going clubbing in Kitgum. Everyone was ready to go out when we were in Kitgum, and this was the 1st time we "all" had gone out together. We had heard of a club called Metro, which turned out to really be called Roxy and was the only club in town. It was large, loud and full of people (not only men) ready to grab/pull any woman they wanted to dance with. I had a good time, but it was quite an experience. I was sooo proud of the guys on our trip who danced around the girls being harassed and blocked potential annoyances. At the same time I had a great time dancing with certain Ugandans and people from our group. For anyone going to Kitgum, I would recommend going to Roxy, probably on a week night unlike us. Part of the problem I'm sure was that it was ladies night.
Well that's all for now folks. I should head home since I left many hours ago. I'm excited for this coming week of classes even though there are many more papers coming up. 13-14 days until RWANDA!
Saturday, September 12, 2009
First full week in Gulutown.
Hello all! So I am still in Gulu happily living with the Nyeko family at the Peyero Guest House/Hotel. I live with my two brothers (Sunday and Sam) and one sister (Hilda). I share a room, and a double bed with my sister. The other sister I told you about in a past post, who is married to one of the President's cousins/brothers, lives in Kampala and is very very pregnant. One person told me she is with triplets. Hopefully I can meet her, the husband, and maybe new babies when we go back to the capitol before we head to Rwanda.
So you will never believe how small this world actually is when I tell you this next bit. So I was sitting on the front “porch” of Peyero when a large SUV pulled up with 2 Muzungues women and 1 African woman. I one of the cute little cats in my lap, and one of the white women saw me with it and smiled at me and began to walk onto the porch, when the two with her told her she was headed to the wrong hotel. Oddly enough I felt as though I knew this woman who smiled at me, but I could not place her in my mind, so I let it go. Then not even 10 minutes later she walked back to her vehicle alone, and by that time I had remembered how I knew her and called after her. I said “this is going to sound totally weird but are you Lauren from ASTT in Baltimore?” Her face looked so shocked, it was such a GOOD moment!
We sat together on my porch and discussed how we had met each other for literally 5 minutes in
the ASTT (Advocates for Survivors of Torture and Trauma) office where we both volunteer. We were both amazed I was able to recognize her, and just how small the world is. This turned out to be a very good meeting indeed. Since she and her colleges had been here in Gulutown for around 3 weeks, she was able to tell me about all of the good spots to go. She told me about Cafe Larame (where I am writing this post from currently); a cute little internet cafe/restaurant created by an American man working in Gulu for some NGO. It has a lot of the things I miss from the US. Grilled CHEESE sandwiches, lattes and iced coffee, ice cream, even fair trade gifts! I have already been here 3 times (twice for food, once for internet). And of course I shared the good with the other 27 students, who now love me more and bring the place a lot more business. Also, apparently there is a bakery which makes Samosas, Indian style... not African style (green beans and carrots only in these)!
The best part though is that she told me all about the community media project she was heading here, Sudan and Rwanda. We actually met up for dinner with her other colleagues (Chelsea and a woman from Sudan whose name I sadly can't remember) and talked about my program and their work. I now have some in country contacts through them at the American Refugee Council. I'm not sure if it will help with my ISP but it will definitely help with someones.
This school week we went on two excursions: to meet the Acholi chief and elders, and to the Patiko Samuel Baker's Fort. Both were amazing in their own way. When we talked with the chief I thought it would be much more formal than it was. We sat in chairs in a circle between the “palace” and the business house, under the shade of a large tree. The chief never stood when he talked, though the others (except us) were expected to. Also, the one elder always repeated the questions we asked into the chiefs ear; he may have been hard of hearing, or it was just the procedure. But other than that it was very informal. After they talked, we asked all our questions and they each answered the best they could... we got to watch some teenagers do traditional Achoo dances and songs! There were 3 total, and all were so beautiful. They should us the traditional Bwola dance which is performed primarily by men and tells the story of their people. I took a lot of pictures, but since I have no CD drive in this mini computer, I can't upload them:( You'll just have to wait until I get back to the states for pictures... that's part of deal with me coming to the third world and all.
Patiko Baker's fort is where the Arabs came and collected East Africans for the slave trade. They would bring them to the fort and separate the weak and ugly from the strong and beautiful. Then they would kill those not worthy of taking to Egypt for the trade on the rocks at the fort. We were actually able to see the ax marks in the stone on the top of the rocks. As sad as the history is, the area was very beautiful! Imagine (if your from VA) the granite rocks of the James River, transplanted to the middle of Uganda, surrounded by large peaks and mountains in each direction. The coordinators should have told us what the excursion would entail though, because most of us girls had chosen to wear skirts and dresses that day, not knowing that we would be rock climbing and hopping. It was okay, but at times I thought the local teenagers, who were they to graze their cattle, got a good show by the American girls trying to climb the peaks. I'd rather not think about it that way though.
On a different note, 4 people in our group have been to the hospital already. Nothing too serious, but 2 have Malaria, 1 cut her finger open and the other had something she brought from home diagnosed. Malaria (if your on the preventative drugs) doesn't seem like too horrible a disease. Apparently your whole body hurts a lot when the symptoms start to show, and you are very weak. But if you are diagnosed early and receive the treatment drugs, you can begin to feel better the next day. I'm not saying that I WANT to get it, but that since it is inevitable that a lot of us will, it does not seem too life threatening.
As far as Gulutown goes, I really love it here. The people I have met are so welcoming and genuine. Even on the street (when my first reaction is usually “what are you trying to get from me”) the boda-boda drivers and people walking (most of the time) smile and say hello! I am also beginning to recognize the other Muzungues around town. There are so few (other than our group) that when you see a white person you immediately recognize their face the next time you see them. It is somewhat like Goucher in that way. Also, living at the Guest House I meet many important Ugandans. So far I have met the Executive Director of Caritas- Uganda, some retired Parliamentarians, the minister of ?defense?, and of course my Mama... the chairwomen of Amoro district for the NRM (president's party). It is a little weird to be honest! Last night my friend Morgan (from SIT) hung out around the bar with me and also met a lot of these affluent Ugandans. Afterward we talked about how we have to be careful what we say in their presence and try to get to know them as people personally before we express our political opinions. I have spent only 2 nights with my mother so far, but she says she will be around more once her business at the farm is done. They own a large parcel of land in Amoro, a ways away from town.
Okay so I have written a lot I realize.... thanks for sticking with me if you have! Just a few more things to tell: 1. ground nuts, which are called G-Nuts here, are basically smaller peanuts used in ALL types of sauces and plain and boy are they tasty! 2. I watched (because I couldn't look away) a chicken being butchered/killed outside my room in the courtyard one of my first days at Peyero, and I was unable to eat meat (especially chicken) for 3-4 days. I got over it just last night. 3. We had our last lesson in the local language Acholi, and I am really going to miss our lecturer Opio Washington. He is by far the best we have had so far. He is hilarious and doesn't know it. He reminds me of a dancing singing Mr. Rogers! Of course, my Acholi is horrible, but we only had 6 days to learn greetings, days of the week, how to tell time etc. And my family speaks amazing English, so I am not forced to learn it. 4. there are 2 really adorable German children sitting next to me in the cafe eating ice cream and fighting over a very large teddy bear! After all, this is the renamed, “muzungu cafe” by our group.. and properly so! 5. And finally... in case you haven't heard, there were violent riots in the capitol of Uganda, Kampala this week. We are all fine, obviously since we are in Gulu, but all businesses are closed and fear looting and 7 or so people have been killed. It is all because the Bugandan (tribal group in central Uganda) Kabaka (King) wants to go to the “forgotten territory” of his kingdom, which became independent of Buganda some years ago. Also I am only able to tell you what I have figured out so far.. so don't quote me on it. The President had told the Kabaka that he was not allowed to go to the territory, and his military police blocked his way yesterday (I believe). After the Bugandans heard about the denial of their King, they began to riot all over the areas of Buganda, especially in the capitol (which is a part of his territory). Those people I know who had planned trips to Kampala this weekend have almost all canceled them in order to be safe.
Well... that's all for now folks! Stay tuned! After all, you will get this post late, because the internet in the whole town is down for awhile. We shall see when it comes back.. hopefully by the work week! ..... right after I wrote that, I asked the lady (Maggie) at the cafe if any internet places were UP, and she pointed me one street over so you are actually getting this the day I wrote it! Saturday.. woo first weekend off!
So you will never believe how small this world actually is when I tell you this next bit. So I was sitting on the front “porch” of Peyero when a large SUV pulled up with 2 Muzungues women and 1 African woman. I one of the cute little cats in my lap, and one of the white women saw me with it and smiled at me and began to walk onto the porch, when the two with her told her she was headed to the wrong hotel. Oddly enough I felt as though I knew this woman who smiled at me, but I could not place her in my mind, so I let it go. Then not even 10 minutes later she walked back to her vehicle alone, and by that time I had remembered how I knew her and called after her. I said “this is going to sound totally weird but are you Lauren from ASTT in Baltimore?” Her face looked so shocked, it was such a GOOD moment!
We sat together on my porch and discussed how we had met each other for literally 5 minutes in
the ASTT (Advocates for Survivors of Torture and Trauma) office where we both volunteer. We were both amazed I was able to recognize her, and just how small the world is. This turned out to be a very good meeting indeed. Since she and her colleges had been here in Gulutown for around 3 weeks, she was able to tell me about all of the good spots to go. She told me about Cafe Larame (where I am writing this post from currently); a cute little internet cafe/restaurant created by an American man working in Gulu for some NGO. It has a lot of the things I miss from the US. Grilled CHEESE sandwiches, lattes and iced coffee, ice cream, even fair trade gifts! I have already been here 3 times (twice for food, once for internet). And of course I shared the good with the other 27 students, who now love me more and bring the place a lot more business. Also, apparently there is a bakery which makes Samosas, Indian style... not African style (green beans and carrots only in these)!
The best part though is that she told me all about the community media project she was heading here, Sudan and Rwanda. We actually met up for dinner with her other colleagues (Chelsea and a woman from Sudan whose name I sadly can't remember) and talked about my program and their work. I now have some in country contacts through them at the American Refugee Council. I'm not sure if it will help with my ISP but it will definitely help with someones.
This school week we went on two excursions: to meet the Acholi chief and elders, and to the Patiko Samuel Baker's Fort. Both were amazing in their own way. When we talked with the chief I thought it would be much more formal than it was. We sat in chairs in a circle between the “palace” and the business house, under the shade of a large tree. The chief never stood when he talked, though the others (except us) were expected to. Also, the one elder always repeated the questions we asked into the chiefs ear; he may have been hard of hearing, or it was just the procedure. But other than that it was very informal. After they talked, we asked all our questions and they each answered the best they could... we got to watch some teenagers do traditional Achoo dances and songs! There were 3 total, and all were so beautiful. They should us the traditional Bwola dance which is performed primarily by men and tells the story of their people. I took a lot of pictures, but since I have no CD drive in this mini computer, I can't upload them:( You'll just have to wait until I get back to the states for pictures... that's part of deal with me coming to the third world and all.
Patiko Baker's fort is where the Arabs came and collected East Africans for the slave trade. They would bring them to the fort and separate the weak and ugly from the strong and beautiful. Then they would kill those not worthy of taking to Egypt for the trade on the rocks at the fort. We were actually able to see the ax marks in the stone on the top of the rocks. As sad as the history is, the area was very beautiful! Imagine (if your from VA) the granite rocks of the James River, transplanted to the middle of Uganda, surrounded by large peaks and mountains in each direction. The coordinators should have told us what the excursion would entail though, because most of us girls had chosen to wear skirts and dresses that day, not knowing that we would be rock climbing and hopping. It was okay, but at times I thought the local teenagers, who were they to graze their cattle, got a good show by the American girls trying to climb the peaks. I'd rather not think about it that way though.
On a different note, 4 people in our group have been to the hospital already. Nothing too serious, but 2 have Malaria, 1 cut her finger open and the other had something she brought from home diagnosed. Malaria (if your on the preventative drugs) doesn't seem like too horrible a disease. Apparently your whole body hurts a lot when the symptoms start to show, and you are very weak. But if you are diagnosed early and receive the treatment drugs, you can begin to feel better the next day. I'm not saying that I WANT to get it, but that since it is inevitable that a lot of us will, it does not seem too life threatening.
As far as Gulutown goes, I really love it here. The people I have met are so welcoming and genuine. Even on the street (when my first reaction is usually “what are you trying to get from me”) the boda-boda drivers and people walking (most of the time) smile and say hello! I am also beginning to recognize the other Muzungues around town. There are so few (other than our group) that when you see a white person you immediately recognize their face the next time you see them. It is somewhat like Goucher in that way. Also, living at the Guest House I meet many important Ugandans. So far I have met the Executive Director of Caritas- Uganda, some retired Parliamentarians, the minister of ?defense?, and of course my Mama... the chairwomen of Amoro district for the NRM (president's party). It is a little weird to be honest! Last night my friend Morgan (from SIT) hung out around the bar with me and also met a lot of these affluent Ugandans. Afterward we talked about how we have to be careful what we say in their presence and try to get to know them as people personally before we express our political opinions. I have spent only 2 nights with my mother so far, but she says she will be around more once her business at the farm is done. They own a large parcel of land in Amoro, a ways away from town.
Okay so I have written a lot I realize.... thanks for sticking with me if you have! Just a few more things to tell: 1. ground nuts, which are called G-Nuts here, are basically smaller peanuts used in ALL types of sauces and plain and boy are they tasty! 2. I watched (because I couldn't look away) a chicken being butchered/killed outside my room in the courtyard one of my first days at Peyero, and I was unable to eat meat (especially chicken) for 3-4 days. I got over it just last night. 3. We had our last lesson in the local language Acholi, and I am really going to miss our lecturer Opio Washington. He is by far the best we have had so far. He is hilarious and doesn't know it. He reminds me of a dancing singing Mr. Rogers! Of course, my Acholi is horrible, but we only had 6 days to learn greetings, days of the week, how to tell time etc. And my family speaks amazing English, so I am not forced to learn it. 4. there are 2 really adorable German children sitting next to me in the cafe eating ice cream and fighting over a very large teddy bear! After all, this is the renamed, “muzungu cafe” by our group.. and properly so! 5. And finally... in case you haven't heard, there were violent riots in the capitol of Uganda, Kampala this week. We are all fine, obviously since we are in Gulu, but all businesses are closed and fear looting and 7 or so people have been killed. It is all because the Bugandan (tribal group in central Uganda) Kabaka (King) wants to go to the “forgotten territory” of his kingdom, which became independent of Buganda some years ago. Also I am only able to tell you what I have figured out so far.. so don't quote me on it. The President had told the Kabaka that he was not allowed to go to the territory, and his military police blocked his way yesterday (I believe). After the Bugandans heard about the denial of their King, they began to riot all over the areas of Buganda, especially in the capitol (which is a part of his territory). Those people I know who had planned trips to Kampala this weekend have almost all canceled them in order to be safe.
Well... that's all for now folks! Stay tuned! After all, you will get this post late, because the internet in the whole town is down for awhile. We shall see when it comes back.. hopefully by the work week! ..... right after I wrote that, I asked the lady (Maggie) at the cafe if any internet places were UP, and she pointed me one street over so you are actually getting this the day I wrote it! Saturday.. woo first weekend off!
Tuesday, September 8, 2009
A few days after I wrote this, but still an update! Gulu!!!!
Hello from Gulu, Uganda!
We arrived in Gulu yesterday afternoon after a six hour interesting Matatu ride. We stopped for lunch in a tiny town along the way that I don't even know the name of. I won't go into detail, but let's just say I couldn't eat the chicken I was given even if it was a “leg” and not the “back” like other people got. They really do use all of the meat here. If you don't specify what it is you want, your not sure what part you will be served.
Once we arrived to the (I believe) biggest town/city in the North, Gulu, all 28 of us were split up into 3 hotels on 1 road. It is definitely a lot of Moana's (white people in Acholi) for the town/city to handle! Today was our dreaded “drop-off”, which is basically when we are split into groups and given a task (something to find out or buy) to complete in town by ourselves. I was in a group of 5 whose task was to find out about the local market (what, where, buy something, talk to people about it, etc). As it turns out, the market, or Cuk, is a large stretch of a few roads at one side of town which consist of secondhand clothes, (probably some I've donated to Goodwill or somewhere in the USA that made their way to Africa) local vegetables and other food, cooking supplies, toys, bikes and much more. It was an experience for us all! The market seems to be the place that those who are poorer in the community are able to earn some money. Almost every other stall/tent was selling the same thing and there were so many of them.
One interesting part we noticed is that even though it is expected and the custom to bargain with all merchants, because we were white (which means we inevitably have more money than these merchants) they wouldn't lower the prices when we tried to bargain. We were also approached by two different people asking us for shillings (money) in two very different ways. The first was a poor elderly woman who was not quite “with it” as my grandmother would say. She spoke very little English, but what she did know how to say was “give me shilling?”. It took us all awhile to understand her accent, but once we knew she wanted money we were able to laugh it off and apologize because we couldn't help her. It is very hard to see/experience these types of things, but what good does it do to give one person some money and not everyone in the same situation. Or even give them any money at all and reinforce the idea that the white people can solve their problems with the magic of money. I'd much rather be able to talk to the people and see what has gone on in their lives to get them where they are.
The scariest part of the day was the Boda-Boda (motorcycle taxi) accident we witnessed! Right as we came out of the market onto the main street, we heard some people screaming and turned to see two Boda-Boda's crashing into each other at an intersection knocking over some pedestrians; one of whom was a small boy. We have been told Boda-Boda's are not safe to travel on, and that if we do we can be “released” from the program, but this scary wreck made me never want to try one. As soon as the motorcycles were back upright, the one responsible was off and running, even though the boy was still on the pavement. We tried to get out of the way, so I don't know what ended up happening to those involved. Motorcycles and bikes are the main transportation in Gulu. There is even such a thing as a bicycle taxi. Women are expected to sit sidesaddle on these modes of transportation which seems/looks so dangerous. If they wobble just a bit too much she will fall off. But then again, in terms of risk and risk management, there are a lot of things I wouldn't do that Ugandans do. It makes Americans seem like caution freaks.
Tomorrow is the day we meet our FAMILIES! I am excited and nervous as of now. But then again, I feel ready to be on my own a bit and only see the other Maona's for class and socializing. We really do seem to spend A LOT of time together during orientation. For example, currently this hotel feels like a dorm because I think we are the only people staying here and we all just sat on the balcony drinking Ugandan beer for a few hours joking and laughing about our experiences and each other. It was a great night, but I am now ready for bed, but it is too loud to fall asleep. In fact Gulu in general is extremely loud at night. Maybe it is the street we are on, but the clubs, bars, and restaurants play load music until 4-5am, which is a problem when your windows don't shut.
Don't get the wrong idea though... Gulu is quite a poor and developing area. We have not had electricity for more than 5 hours at a time here. It is difficult to get used to. I don't think of myself as a “prissy” or “girly” girl, but not having running water when you wake up is.. umm.... not the first thing you expect. Thankfully my friend Christian (from VCU actually) let me use his shower this afternoon at the Hotel across the street. It was actually the best shower I have had in Africa so far. Hot water, strong water pressure and a big shower! Not a combination you get often here. I think that Hotel is run by a generator most of the time. You can hear them running all over town in the “nicer” areas. The blackouts here are frequent, which is why it is difficult to get on the internet, hence the blogs slow progression. Assignments here will definitely be difficult to complete, which I am not too excited about.
I don't want to sound like I am complaining though; it really is great here! The people are so genuinely nice! So many people you pass on the street are smiling and happy to know that you are here in their community. I only see another white person once or twice a day (other than our group), but apparently this is the Northern headquarters for NGO's and international involvement. I have seen a dozen UN SUV's already, as well as many signs for Human Rights Org's. I think a lot of our group hopes to stay and do their ISP's (Independent Study Projects) here in Gulu at the end of the trip. Not many of us are planning on staying in Rwanda, and I'm not even sure if I am one of “us” yet. I have to get there before I can decide if I want to take that on (emotionally and mentally).
We had our first Acholi language lesson this morning with Opio Washington, who is the most adorable character I have met yet. He is so enthusiastic about his culture and teaching us his language. I learned how to say come “bin”, home “gang”, and dress “bongo” as well as a few other words. It is a slow process, but I have already been able to use some. When we, the Maona's, speak Acholi language the Acholi people laugh at us and then switch to English and help us out. They seem to appreciate it, even if we do butcher the accent with all our Er er er er's.
Oh, and quickly before I forget, I asked on of our aides/drivers today where Dianne Gardens was (since that is across from where my homestay will be), and he told me,but mainly said “wow” “oh my god, they placed you there”, which after deliberation at dinner was decided to be a good thing. I mean being located near a “gardens” sounds like a good thing, since that is not an often occurrence here (plants not meant to make money or food that is). So as of now I have come to the conclusion that I am in one of the more affluent households, which will of course still not have electricity but will be a little easier to get used to than the huts around town. Of course, I am ready for any living situation, and I will know more tomorrow and be able to fill you in...... after that... some time in the near future!
Well now I should try and get some sleep. Lots of exciting things tomorrow. Acholi class, homestay meeting, last day in the hotel and being spoiled! I'll fill you in again as soon as I can.
Peace, Kai.
We arrived in Gulu yesterday afternoon after a six hour interesting Matatu ride. We stopped for lunch in a tiny town along the way that I don't even know the name of. I won't go into detail, but let's just say I couldn't eat the chicken I was given even if it was a “leg” and not the “back” like other people got. They really do use all of the meat here. If you don't specify what it is you want, your not sure what part you will be served.
Once we arrived to the (I believe) biggest town/city in the North, Gulu, all 28 of us were split up into 3 hotels on 1 road. It is definitely a lot of Moana's (white people in Acholi) for the town/city to handle! Today was our dreaded “drop-off”, which is basically when we are split into groups and given a task (something to find out or buy) to complete in town by ourselves. I was in a group of 5 whose task was to find out about the local market (what, where, buy something, talk to people about it, etc). As it turns out, the market, or Cuk, is a large stretch of a few roads at one side of town which consist of secondhand clothes, (probably some I've donated to Goodwill or somewhere in the USA that made their way to Africa) local vegetables and other food, cooking supplies, toys, bikes and much more. It was an experience for us all! The market seems to be the place that those who are poorer in the community are able to earn some money. Almost every other stall/tent was selling the same thing and there were so many of them.
One interesting part we noticed is that even though it is expected and the custom to bargain with all merchants, because we were white (which means we inevitably have more money than these merchants) they wouldn't lower the prices when we tried to bargain. We were also approached by two different people asking us for shillings (money) in two very different ways. The first was a poor elderly woman who was not quite “with it” as my grandmother would say. She spoke very little English, but what she did know how to say was “give me shilling?”. It took us all awhile to understand her accent, but once we knew she wanted money we were able to laugh it off and apologize because we couldn't help her. It is very hard to see/experience these types of things, but what good does it do to give one person some money and not everyone in the same situation. Or even give them any money at all and reinforce the idea that the white people can solve their problems with the magic of money. I'd much rather be able to talk to the people and see what has gone on in their lives to get them where they are.
The scariest part of the day was the Boda-Boda (motorcycle taxi) accident we witnessed! Right as we came out of the market onto the main street, we heard some people screaming and turned to see two Boda-Boda's crashing into each other at an intersection knocking over some pedestrians; one of whom was a small boy. We have been told Boda-Boda's are not safe to travel on, and that if we do we can be “released” from the program, but this scary wreck made me never want to try one. As soon as the motorcycles were back upright, the one responsible was off and running, even though the boy was still on the pavement. We tried to get out of the way, so I don't know what ended up happening to those involved. Motorcycles and bikes are the main transportation in Gulu. There is even such a thing as a bicycle taxi. Women are expected to sit sidesaddle on these modes of transportation which seems/looks so dangerous. If they wobble just a bit too much she will fall off. But then again, in terms of risk and risk management, there are a lot of things I wouldn't do that Ugandans do. It makes Americans seem like caution freaks.
Tomorrow is the day we meet our FAMILIES! I am excited and nervous as of now. But then again, I feel ready to be on my own a bit and only see the other Maona's for class and socializing. We really do seem to spend A LOT of time together during orientation. For example, currently this hotel feels like a dorm because I think we are the only people staying here and we all just sat on the balcony drinking Ugandan beer for a few hours joking and laughing about our experiences and each other. It was a great night, but I am now ready for bed, but it is too loud to fall asleep. In fact Gulu in general is extremely loud at night. Maybe it is the street we are on, but the clubs, bars, and restaurants play load music until 4-5am, which is a problem when your windows don't shut.
Don't get the wrong idea though... Gulu is quite a poor and developing area. We have not had electricity for more than 5 hours at a time here. It is difficult to get used to. I don't think of myself as a “prissy” or “girly” girl, but not having running water when you wake up is.. umm.... not the first thing you expect. Thankfully my friend Christian (from VCU actually) let me use his shower this afternoon at the Hotel across the street. It was actually the best shower I have had in Africa so far. Hot water, strong water pressure and a big shower! Not a combination you get often here. I think that Hotel is run by a generator most of the time. You can hear them running all over town in the “nicer” areas. The blackouts here are frequent, which is why it is difficult to get on the internet, hence the blogs slow progression. Assignments here will definitely be difficult to complete, which I am not too excited about.
I don't want to sound like I am complaining though; it really is great here! The people are so genuinely nice! So many people you pass on the street are smiling and happy to know that you are here in their community. I only see another white person once or twice a day (other than our group), but apparently this is the Northern headquarters for NGO's and international involvement. I have seen a dozen UN SUV's already, as well as many signs for Human Rights Org's. I think a lot of our group hopes to stay and do their ISP's (Independent Study Projects) here in Gulu at the end of the trip. Not many of us are planning on staying in Rwanda, and I'm not even sure if I am one of “us” yet. I have to get there before I can decide if I want to take that on (emotionally and mentally).
We had our first Acholi language lesson this morning with Opio Washington, who is the most adorable character I have met yet. He is so enthusiastic about his culture and teaching us his language. I learned how to say come “bin”, home “gang”, and dress “bongo” as well as a few other words. It is a slow process, but I have already been able to use some. When we, the Maona's, speak Acholi language the Acholi people laugh at us and then switch to English and help us out. They seem to appreciate it, even if we do butcher the accent with all our Er er er er's.
Oh, and quickly before I forget, I asked on of our aides/drivers today where Dianne Gardens was (since that is across from where my homestay will be), and he told me,but mainly said “wow” “oh my god, they placed you there”, which after deliberation at dinner was decided to be a good thing. I mean being located near a “gardens” sounds like a good thing, since that is not an often occurrence here (plants not meant to make money or food that is). So as of now I have come to the conclusion that I am in one of the more affluent households, which will of course still not have electricity but will be a little easier to get used to than the huts around town. Of course, I am ready for any living situation, and I will know more tomorrow and be able to fill you in...... after that... some time in the near future!
Well now I should try and get some sleep. Lots of exciting things tomorrow. Acholi class, homestay meeting, last day in the hotel and being spoiled! I'll fill you in again as soon as I can.
Peace, Kai.
Friday, September 4, 2009
Kampala Kampala Kampala, Uganda!
So I am finally here.. in Uganda! It feels like I have been here so long becuase we do so much each day. After we (almost all 28 of us) got off the plane in Entebbe we immediatley put our luggage and ourselves into 3 Matatu's (van taxi's) and drove for an hour to the capitol of Uganda, Kampala, where we are staying for most of the orientation week.
I have talked to a few of the other students, and we all concluded that we are definetly being SPOILED for the first week. We are staying at the Jeliza Hotel on one of Kampala's main streets, Bombo Rd, where they serve us a nice breakfast each morning of boiled eggs, banana's (which I still dont eat), bread and butter/jam, cereal with hot milk (not my cup of tea), and instant coffee. There is no fresh ground coffee here... only instant. We have had lunch and dinner at the Jeliza too, but most of the time they take us out to realy nice restaurants (Indian, Ethiopian, Traditional Ugandan).
As for living situations so far, I paired up with a Midwestern girl named Tonia who is really sweet and genuine. I try and interact with different students each day whether that be by choosing to sit at different tables, or in different vans, even in class. So far it has worked well but there are a few people I dont know very well still. Everyone seems really great. We all come from such different backgrounds: Yale, Williams, Seattle, Photo and Film majors. It was really surprising how few Peace Studies majors there are on the program.. only Hanna and I (I believe)! I think it will make class discussion very interesting.
OK so I only have a few minutes left on the computer at the internet cafe... so It is important for me to tell you all this.....
My homestay family in Gulu (the north where the civil war was/is) is related to President Museveni! Basically my mother's, Rose, eldest daughter married one of the President's cousins. Crazy huh! I will have to feel out her political opinion before I share mine for sure. Today my AD (academic director) Dr. William Komakech said that Rose is, and I quote, "Interesting". I got an interesting feeling that he meant, opinionated, or weird when he said that. I'll update you more once I have moved to Gulu (Tomorrow) and moved in with her (Monday).
I have so muchy more to write.... but no time! Sorry. Ill try and get to a cafe in Gulu soon! They will be much more sparse than here in Kampala. All I can say is I love it here, and I am ready to meet my new Ugandan "family". Keep in touch my friends! I love to hear from you via email or comments.
Peace, the Virginian Mugunzo (white person).
-Kai
I have talked to a few of the other students, and we all concluded that we are definetly being SPOILED for the first week. We are staying at the Jeliza Hotel on one of Kampala's main streets, Bombo Rd, where they serve us a nice breakfast each morning of boiled eggs, banana's (which I still dont eat), bread and butter/jam, cereal with hot milk (not my cup of tea), and instant coffee. There is no fresh ground coffee here... only instant. We have had lunch and dinner at the Jeliza too, but most of the time they take us out to realy nice restaurants (Indian, Ethiopian, Traditional Ugandan).
As for living situations so far, I paired up with a Midwestern girl named Tonia who is really sweet and genuine. I try and interact with different students each day whether that be by choosing to sit at different tables, or in different vans, even in class. So far it has worked well but there are a few people I dont know very well still. Everyone seems really great. We all come from such different backgrounds: Yale, Williams, Seattle, Photo and Film majors. It was really surprising how few Peace Studies majors there are on the program.. only Hanna and I (I believe)! I think it will make class discussion very interesting.
OK so I only have a few minutes left on the computer at the internet cafe... so It is important for me to tell you all this.....
My homestay family in Gulu (the north where the civil war was/is) is related to President Museveni! Basically my mother's, Rose, eldest daughter married one of the President's cousins. Crazy huh! I will have to feel out her political opinion before I share mine for sure. Today my AD (academic director) Dr. William Komakech said that Rose is, and I quote, "Interesting". I got an interesting feeling that he meant, opinionated, or weird when he said that. I'll update you more once I have moved to Gulu (Tomorrow) and moved in with her (Monday).
I have so muchy more to write.... but no time! Sorry. Ill try and get to a cafe in Gulu soon! They will be much more sparse than here in Kampala. All I can say is I love it here, and I am ready to meet my new Ugandan "family". Keep in touch my friends! I love to hear from you via email or comments.
Peace, the Virginian Mugunzo (white person).
-Kai
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