Tuesday, September 8, 2009

A few days after I wrote this, but still an update! Gulu!!!!

Hello from Gulu, Uganda!
We arrived in Gulu yesterday afternoon after a six hour interesting Matatu ride. We stopped for lunch in a tiny town along the way that I don't even know the name of. I won't go into detail, but let's just say I couldn't eat the chicken I was given even if it was a “leg” and not the “back” like other people got. They really do use all of the meat here. If you don't specify what it is you want, your not sure what part you will be served.
Once we arrived to the (I believe) biggest town/city in the North, Gulu, all 28 of us were split up into 3 hotels on 1 road. It is definitely a lot of Moana's (white people in Acholi) for the town/city to handle! Today was our dreaded “drop-off”, which is basically when we are split into groups and given a task (something to find out or buy) to complete in town by ourselves. I was in a group of 5 whose task was to find out about the local market (what, where, buy something, talk to people about it, etc). As it turns out, the market, or Cuk, is a large stretch of a few roads at one side of town which consist of secondhand clothes, (probably some I've donated to Goodwill or somewhere in the USA that made their way to Africa) local vegetables and other food, cooking supplies, toys, bikes and much more. It was an experience for us all! The market seems to be the place that those who are poorer in the community are able to earn some money. Almost every other stall/tent was selling the same thing and there were so many of them.
One interesting part we noticed is that even though it is expected and the custom to bargain with all merchants, because we were white (which means we inevitably have more money than these merchants) they wouldn't lower the prices when we tried to bargain. We were also approached by two different people asking us for shillings (money) in two very different ways. The first was a poor elderly woman who was not quite “with it” as my grandmother would say. She spoke very little English, but what she did know how to say was “give me shilling?”. It took us all awhile to understand her accent, but once we knew she wanted money we were able to laugh it off and apologize because we couldn't help her. It is very hard to see/experience these types of things, but what good does it do to give one person some money and not everyone in the same situation. Or even give them any money at all and reinforce the idea that the white people can solve their problems with the magic of money. I'd much rather be able to talk to the people and see what has gone on in their lives to get them where they are.
The scariest part of the day was the Boda-Boda (motorcycle taxi) accident we witnessed! Right as we came out of the market onto the main street, we heard some people screaming and turned to see two Boda-Boda's crashing into each other at an intersection knocking over some pedestrians; one of whom was a small boy. We have been told Boda-Boda's are not safe to travel on, and that if we do we can be “released” from the program, but this scary wreck made me never want to try one. As soon as the motorcycles were back upright, the one responsible was off and running, even though the boy was still on the pavement. We tried to get out of the way, so I don't know what ended up happening to those involved. Motorcycles and bikes are the main transportation in Gulu. There is even such a thing as a bicycle taxi. Women are expected to sit sidesaddle on these modes of transportation which seems/looks so dangerous. If they wobble just a bit too much she will fall off. But then again, in terms of risk and risk management, there are a lot of things I wouldn't do that Ugandans do. It makes Americans seem like caution freaks.
Tomorrow is the day we meet our FAMILIES! I am excited and nervous as of now. But then again, I feel ready to be on my own a bit and only see the other Maona's for class and socializing. We really do seem to spend A LOT of time together during orientation. For example, currently this hotel feels like a dorm because I think we are the only people staying here and we all just sat on the balcony drinking Ugandan beer for a few hours joking and laughing about our experiences and each other. It was a great night, but I am now ready for bed, but it is too loud to fall asleep. In fact Gulu in general is extremely loud at night. Maybe it is the street we are on, but the clubs, bars, and restaurants play load music until 4-5am, which is a problem when your windows don't shut.
Don't get the wrong idea though... Gulu is quite a poor and developing area. We have not had electricity for more than 5 hours at a time here. It is difficult to get used to. I don't think of myself as a “prissy” or “girly” girl, but not having running water when you wake up is.. umm.... not the first thing you expect. Thankfully my friend Christian (from VCU actually) let me use his shower this afternoon at the Hotel across the street. It was actually the best shower I have had in Africa so far. Hot water, strong water pressure and a big shower! Not a combination you get often here. I think that Hotel is run by a generator most of the time. You can hear them running all over town in the “nicer” areas. The blackouts here are frequent, which is why it is difficult to get on the internet, hence the blogs slow progression. Assignments here will definitely be difficult to complete, which I am not too excited about.
I don't want to sound like I am complaining though; it really is great here! The people are so genuinely nice! So many people you pass on the street are smiling and happy to know that you are here in their community. I only see another white person once or twice a day (other than our group), but apparently this is the Northern headquarters for NGO's and international involvement. I have seen a dozen UN SUV's already, as well as many signs for Human Rights Org's. I think a lot of our group hopes to stay and do their ISP's (Independent Study Projects) here in Gulu at the end of the trip. Not many of us are planning on staying in Rwanda, and I'm not even sure if I am one of “us” yet. I have to get there before I can decide if I want to take that on (emotionally and mentally).
We had our first Acholi language lesson this morning with Opio Washington, who is the most adorable character I have met yet. He is so enthusiastic about his culture and teaching us his language. I learned how to say come “bin”, home “gang”, and dress “bongo” as well as a few other words. It is a slow process, but I have already been able to use some. When we, the Maona's, speak Acholi language the Acholi people laugh at us and then switch to English and help us out. They seem to appreciate it, even if we do butcher the accent with all our Er er er er's.
Oh, and quickly before I forget, I asked on of our aides/drivers today where Dianne Gardens was (since that is across from where my homestay will be), and he told me,but mainly said “wow” “oh my god, they placed you there”, which after deliberation at dinner was decided to be a good thing. I mean being located near a “gardens” sounds like a good thing, since that is not an often occurrence here (plants not meant to make money or food that is). So as of now I have come to the conclusion that I am in one of the more affluent households, which will of course still not have electricity but will be a little easier to get used to than the huts around town. Of course, I am ready for any living situation, and I will know more tomorrow and be able to fill you in...... after that... some time in the near future!

Well now I should try and get some sleep. Lots of exciting things tomorrow. Acholi class, homestay meeting, last day in the hotel and being spoiled! I'll fill you in again as soon as I can.
Peace, Kai.

2 comments:

  1. Anonymous9/08/2009

    You've written a great description to help us picture your experience, Kai, thanks. You're really beginning to be where your chosen education may occur now, it looks like. I bet you have been placed with the "interesting"/opinionated woman in the garden district for a reason...or maybe it was just a random decision (don't think so, though). Hey, I got a better calling card tonight, so let us know when there is another good time to call. Love you.
    Mom/Pat I

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  2. Kai! it sounds like we are experiencing some very similar things...poverty, power outages, water shortages, women precariously perched on motorcycles...even the language. Whenever I try to speak in Kannada, people either can't understand me at all, because of my accent, or just respond in English. It is kind of frustrating, actually; I study and go to class for nothing, basically. The most useful phrase I know is "esthu?" how much?
    Anyway, good luck with your home stay! Love and miss you a lot, but I'm so excited to keep hearing about your adventure!

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